We spent New Year’s in Rome, staying in an apartment near Piazza Navona. Literally the Heart of Rome. What an amazing experience for two school teachers to be able to have! We were swept into the romance and history of this amazing city. Rome is rife with beauty. Initially all we could do was stand in awe, stupidly, mouth agape, and then take photographs like the rest of tourists. I could stare at a Bernini sculpture, any of the dozens of them, and shudder with disbelief. How is it possible to sculpt humans so lifelike, so intricately and with such precision, with clothing that appears to be unfurling in the breeze? Then magnify that disbelief by two thousand year old buildings that are still standing marvelously, architecturally the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen.

Around Town

Based on our tour guides, we arrived at a great time, because Rome wasn’t nearly as populated by tourists. It was very easy walking through the city. Very few people spoke English, and when they did, it usually dealt with the trivial and the banal business of life. “We need to buy an umbrella,” or “Keep your eye open for the pharmacy.” Instead, when the vast majority of people spoke in other languages (most commonly, Italian, Spanish & French), everything sounded more intelligent and important. Their meaning might be equally trivial as English speakers, but we could pretend they were having insightful discussions about their souls, or speaking perceptively of essential and rarefied things.

Testaccio Neighborhood Food  and Walking Tour

Additionally we took a food tour through the Testaccio neighborhood, “interspersing history, tradition, and local food culture while giving you a great glimpse into daily life in a less-seen side of the city” (Quote by Rick Steves). Our tour guide was charismatic enough to be a TV personality – funny but also passionate and knowledgeable. Ashley’s favorite food from this tour was buffalo mozzarella, and not having eaten pork since August, I was delighted by a pancetta that melted like chocolate in your mouth.

colosseo

  

Nero the cat of the coliseum, named after the Emperor.

Campo de’ Fiori Morning Market

The Vatican and St. Peter’s

Our Cooking Class

Ashley, bless her heart, booked brilliant tours throughout our stay. We took a cooking class our first day. We learned how to use a pasta maker. Our teacher had dreamed of being a chef as a young boy, learning from his father, and he did his best to make us comfortable and learn as much as possible. I wanted to spend a few days with him, absorbing everything I could, but the time we did have has the potential of steering us away from store-bought pastas, and increased our appreciation of food and cooking.

Hadrian’s Villa and Villa D’Este in Tivoli

The Amalfi Coast and Pompeii

Some other highlights included visiting the ruins of Pompey and driving along the Amalfi Coast. The ruins were astonishing, how preserved things remain, and how much people have learned about the past. On the different towns along the Italian coast, we happened upon a parade through the streets, a man belting Italian songs into a megaphone amidst a procession of musicians and dancers.  Amalfi is also the home to one of my favorite chefs, Gennaro:

Getting caught in a marching band in Amalfi

The wild dogs of Pompeii.

We toured the Vatican and Coliseum on different days, and wandered through the streets stopping at fountains, plazas, and squares everywhere we walked. To end, we ate indulgently, drank well, and were happy and grateful for the experiences.